The best laid plans - Alton IL to Little Diversion Canal

Kermit letting lose lines

We left Alton Marina with our new friends Rick and Kris McHarig on Eagle One, a 45’ Sea Ray with an enclosed bridge out of Occanow VA, just south of DC. Rick is a retired Navy pilot and Kris is a retired Naval pediatric nurse. They are delightful.

Entering the channel we can see fog

It was a little foggy when we left but as we saw the fog lift we decided to leave. Our target was Hoppies Marina at M158.5, a journey of 44 miles from the marina at M202.9. See how easy it is to calculate your distance?

Eagle One getting ready to
leave as Good Karma
moves off the dock

It sounds like a short day but we were on the Mississippi with its special adventures and we had to traverse 2 locks so no telling how long it would take.

That is fog, otherwise you could
see the other side of the river

The sun peeked through the fog so we threw off lines and decided to leave around 7:30am. We didn’t get far. As soon as we turned the corner onto the Mississippi we saw the distance swallowed up by fog! We hung around moving very slowly, radar on looking for tows to appear suddenly in our face. No tows. No movement. Just us stupid pleasure boaters eager to take on the foggy day. What were we thinking?

At least we were safe but that is a lot of fog

The Alton Bridge looks great
shrouded in fog

The lockmaster said as much. The Mel Price Lock and Dam is generally within viewing distance at M200.8. Not so today. The fog came up so suddenly after we’d been given clearance to enter the lock from our starting point so the lockmaster suggested we pull into the lock and tie up until the fog cleared. Nothing else was moving so it wouldn’t be a problem.We stayed tied up in the lock for TWO HOURS. All the while the tows were chattering on the radio. They were lined up north and south of the lock – 6 tows lined up on the north side waiting to go south and 5 tows lined up on the south side waiting to go north. And our two little pleasure craft were in the lock waiting patiently for the weather to clear. No one was happy.

Leaving Mel Price Lock 

It was actually interesting to listen to the radio. A tow would call in, “This is the Cindy Sue south bound with 24 waiting for instructions.” “Cindy Sue, this is the Mel Price Lock. You are number 5 southbound. Step in behind the Johnny B and wait for further instructions.” “Roger that, Mel Price. When do you think it will clear?” “A few more minutes, Cindy Sue. We’ve got 2 pleasure craft in the chamber right now. No one moves until the fog clears and we get these pleasure craft out of the chamber and on their way. Probably five or six hours.” “Pleasure craft? What are they doing out in this weather? Oh well, Roger that Mel Price. Cindy Sue standing by on 14 in number 5 position southbound.”

This tow is a 24 - six barges long and four barges wide!

Makes you feel just warm inside to be the center of attention like that… Especially considering a tow with 24 means they have barges tied to them four across and six wide in 4mph current. Just because there is fog does not reduce the current any. So the Cindy Sue has to kind of standstill in 4mph water waiting for the pleasure craft to leave the chamber, 4 other tows probably similar sized to go through south bound in front of them and 4 more probably similar sized to go through north bound before they can move.

To wait like that the tows move the entire barge configuration to the side of the river and stick them into the dirt on the bank. Then when it is their turn, they have to PULL the entire configuration out of the bank and maneuver their way to the middle of the river. It is quite the hassle. Nothing moves quickly although once they get under way they move much faster than it appear and kick up quite the wake. The turbulence from a big tow can extend for a mile or more behind the tow making pleasure craft bounce like crossing the Mosley Channel out of Sandusky Bay on July 4^th.

We busied ourselves with the small maintenance tasks that we put off. We did a little laundry, cleaned the house, I did a little writing and talked to a few clients. It remained foggy in the chamber. The lockmaster scooted around in his golf cart, back and forth, on the radio. Finally after two hours the chatter became more than the lockmaster could stand. “Mel Price, the fog is pretty clear out here. I think those pleasure craft will be just fine.” “Roger that Johnny B. Let’s give it five more minutes.”

Finally, “Pleasure craft in Mel Price, we are hearing the fog is lifting enough to get this show on the road. I am going to start the lock.” “Roger that Mel Price. We are ready when you are.”

The entrance to the canal is on the left - don't go right

Zappo whammo the water went down, the doors opened and we were on our way. It wasn’t sunny but the fog was whispy instead of a big gray curtain. We did not make eye contact with those tows staggered along the banks.

The skies cleared nicely the rest of the morning.

At M195.3 we passed the junction with the Missouri River. It looks much bigger than the Mississippi at this point. The river is very wide at this point but it is important to stay in the channel. We see lots of junk in the water, mostly trees and wood. Between avoiding tows and junk in the water, we did not travel in a straight line.

Lots of work being done on the side
of the water

A few miles down the river at M194.5 we take the left fork in the road to enter the Chain of Rocks Canal. DO NOT get my sister Martha started on this canal. She holds a grudge from her college days about environmental impact. However the canal performs a valuable service to commercial and pleasure craft traversing the rivers. The main part of the river on the right side looks like the correct choice but it is deceiving. The canal diverts us around a bunch of wild rapids in a really wide river. Don’t go to the right.

Entering Chain of Rocks Lock - I've circled the tiny green
light you have to notice to know the lock is open - can
you see that because I have trouble sometimes

The canal is not much to look at, just levees on both sides. The Chain of Rocks Lock and Dam at M185 regulates water movement at the end of the canal. But this time the water level didn’t change much. The lockmaster suggested we didn’t even have to tie up. We could just float through. We threw a line around the bollard just in case but it was pretty uneventful.

The doors opened and the city of St. Louis appears at the end of the canal looking shiny and vibrant! Lots of industry in here with a gazillion tows loading and unloading barges. There was a lot to pay attention to. Not as bad as NY harbor but pretty darned busy.

We have the obligatory pictures of the St. Louis Arch built to commemorate the wagon trains that left St. Louis to open up the west to white settlements.

The River Queen by the arch

Who puts a sculpture like this in their yard? 

Approaching Hoppies - go past then turn up river to tie up

Katherine took calls and wrote articles while Kermit did most of the driving. I spelled Kermit for a nap both days while gave me a chance to did a little exercise. I consider standing at the helm a little like working out at a barre! Kermit does not approve but as long as I am quiet, he will never know!!

There used to be 2 more barges

Checking out the tie up 

Hoppies Marina is only a few miles further down the river at M158.5 on the right descending bank, which is noted as RDB on the chart. This is an important direction indicator. If you know which way the water is moving you can tell someone what side an item of interest is on just by saying RDB or LDB even if you are headed upstream. So the St. Louis Arch is on the Right Descending Bank.

The Hoppies live in the house above the "marina"

Hoppies is on the Right Descending Bank. Pretty cool, huh? Now you know another nautical term!!

Check out that swirling water - that is current

Hoppies is famous. The owner, Fern Hoppie, used to give a daily briefing at 4:30pm about everything she knows about the river between her marina and Green Turtle, the next big place. Her daughter Debbie does it while Fern is laid up with a knee replacement.

Kris, Debbie, Rick and Katherine

According to Debbie and Fern, there are only 2 places to anchor on the Mississippi River right now and almost nowhere to anchor on the Ohio River. For a short day, we could anchor by the Kaskaskia Lock M117.5, only about 40 miles down the river. For a longer day, we could anchor at Little Diversion Canal M48.8.

Vickie is everywhere!

Here is how we evaluated the options: We could break the Mississippi into 2 parts and anchor at Kaskaskia Lock on Day One (40 miles) then at Little Diversion Canal on Day Two (68 miles). Or we could just head to Little Diversion (118 miles) in one day.

Other anchorages we stayed at on our first loop like Rockwood Island, Boston Bar or Angelo’s Towhead are no longer available because of the high water. We passed Rockwood Island (M102.4) but didn’t see any wing dams to duck behind because all the wing dams that provide any sort of protection are under water because the Mississippi is at flood stage.

Check out the swirling water!

That shimmering comes from the current and water swirling
around stuff in the water

At the end of the Mississippi we make a hard left up the Ohio River (against the current) for about 50 miles to Paducah KY. The current is a big deal. On the Mississippi River we are picking up about 3 mph or more. That means while we travel at 1000 rpm which would normally have us traveling at about 9.5mph the current is pushing us to 13.5mph! We feel like we are flying. 

The Ohio River runs towards the Mississippi and it is at flood stage too. That means the water is high and the current is fast as the water runs down hill towards the Mississippi. When we turn the corner to start up the Ohio River we will face a 5 to 6 mph current against us. That means at 1000 rpm (normally about 9.5mph) we will be lucky to travel at 5 mph. Traveling will be slow going. 

A huge tow

Stuff happening at the riverside

Paducah built a wall dock for travelers that will be our target after Little Diversion Canal. That will be a 90 mile day - 48 on the fast moving Mississippi and another 40+ on the very slow Ohio River. We expect to be driving at least 8 hours, maybe 9. We will leave at dawn. 

Check out that wake!

The following day we will head to the Cumberland River with the goal of Green Turtle Marina on Cumberland Lake. We can re-provision here, get fuel and (finally) a pump out. That was the plan as we left Hoppies. 

Cape Girardeau

The water was good and traffic was light on this Saturday so we kept going past Kaskaskia Lock to Little Diversion. This is a beautiful anchorage. It is about 40 feet wide and at least 100 feet long with about 20 feet of water. It is wonderful, safe and quiet. We get almost no wake from the tows passing in the river. The only downside is if it rains hard, this canal provides the drainage for Cape Girardeau which is somewhere near here. Otherwise it is quiet.

Eagle One trying to set anchor

It is a good thing this is a good anchorage because we had a comedy of errors getting in here! Good Karma went first to determine depth. We went about halfway down the canal and set our anchor.

Little Diversion Canal

Rafting off in Little Diversion Canal

We called for Eagle One to enter. They came on in and settled in a spot about 50 feet away from us. Then they proceeded to spend about 30 minutes trying to set their anchor. Turns out this brand new Vulcan anchor was installed backwards! Every time they put down the anchor it just dragged on the bottom instead of digging in.
 

They were frustrated, tired and exhausted so we said, “Come on over and raft off of us!” Our boats are different sizes but we found a way to tie up that allowed Rick and Kris to walk on our boat. I made fajitas that night!

The next morning, Sunday November 4, 2018, we got up at the crack of dawn determined to make Paducah KY that night. We started up our engines. We heard Rick start up one engine then nothing. Eagle One’s starboard engine will not start! Dead. The engine was not getting a charge. We were not going anywhere that day!

Will it work this time? No...

Rick and Kermit spent most of the day trying different ways to get the engine started. The changed the trickle charger. They found a Hot Spot charger, charged it on our boat then applied it to the starboard engine. Nothing worked. In the meantime they called Boat US but no tow boats were within 100 miles of here. The Coast Guard checked in every three hours. They called every police department within three counties but no one had a boat that could come out. 

Close to dinner time we thought about calling Hoppies to ask their opinion. Rick got Fern herself on the phone. She had a good idea of calling Green Turtle Marina directly. That was Rick’s next call. Brandon at Green Turtle had a wonderful idea of calling this particular mechanical outfit nearby that services tows. But since it was Sunday we would have to call at 8am on Monday morning.

I made chicken pot pie for dinner. YUM!! We are eating well.

Rick checking the Hot Shot

As I write this on Monday morning Nov 5, Rick talked to Brandon. Brandon’s insurance prevents him from working on pleasure crafts but he is able to bring us the equipment – a new 8D battery, a new charger and other equipment to fix an engine’s electrical problems. He will bring it to us in a bass boat then hang out while Rick and Kermit install the new equipment.

Assuming everything ends well today, here is the plan:

Tuesday, Nov 6, 2018: Paducah KY M935 on the Ohio (the numbering system changes)

Wednesday, Nov 7, 2018: Green Turtle M31.7 on the Cumberland River (the numbering system changes again) at Barkley Lake; we will try to provision when we arrive so we can take off the next day

Thursday Nov 8: we either stay one day to provision or move on to the Tennessee River and Paris Landing State Park Marina M66.1, a 70 mile day

Friday Nov 9: Pebble Isle Marina M96.1. I know this is only a 30 mile trip but this is the place where they make homemade cinnamon rolls in the morning!

I hate to plan further than four or five days in advance. You never know what might happen! This is an adventure!!