Saturday, December 29, 2018

Christmas on the boat! M366 to almost Mobile AL


Merry Christmas to everyone! 

None. The answer to the question of whether we had any breakdowns or difficult situations since 12/23 when we grounded. Must be the luck four leaf clover keychains from Eve and Bill Gribble we received for Christmas! Thank you for that good luck. The luck charms along with plenty of prayers and a good mechanic seem to be making the difference. 

Leaving on 12/23
 Fog and rain are the story of these last few days. Except Christmas. Christmas day was beautiful.

We left you last with our adventure on December 23. We grounded out then was blown off the dirt by a little center console at Smithville. Then we went through a lock at dusk and another in the dark then played blind man’s bluff to get to the anchorage at M366.3 on the Tombigbee Waterway.

Let’s pick up the story on Christmas Eve, December 24. It was foggy at dawn. Icey frost covered everything. Kermit wore his life jacket to pull up the anchor because the water was so cold. We were still tense from yesterday’s adventure. We weren’t saying much. With that much tension, silence is the better part of valor.

Anchoring at
Windham Landing at dusk 
Our goal was an anchorage at M286 called Windham Landing. We went through 3 locks, Aberdeen at 357.5, Stennis at M334.7 and Bevill at M306.8 for an 80 mile trip. That is a lot of miles and a lot of locks to travel in about 9 hours. We can only travel during daylight between about 7am and 4pm, so everything has to run smoothly. Fog was not in the plan.

Windham Landing anchorage
We waited as long as we could. We pulled the anchor when we saw the other side of the shore. We tip toed down the river until the sun burnt off the fog. We passed fewer tows than usual and made good time.

Rivers look like rivers. Trees on the side, red and green markers, birds flitting in and out, but very few people. On the rare occasion we saw a person we waved like crazy people! Not much going on here.

Pineapple Upside down
cake for Christmas dessert
We passed Columbus, our original target on 12/23 and kept going until we reached M286. This anchorage is on the Right Descending Bank which is standard terminology for the west side of the river, on an oxbow, a place where a side spit of water winds away from the main river around a small piece of land, creating an island. We dropped anchor as the sun went down.

In the distance, we could hear cows mooing and moving on the bank. This was a cattle farm!! With a farmhouse at the back of the oxbow!! After being so alone, it was comforting to know people were nearby even if we couldn’t see them.

We made a wonder steak dinner and opened a few presents. Marissa gave us the cutest little waffle maker that makes one waffle at a time! We made waffles the next morning!


Christmas morning, our goal was Demopolis at M216, another 70 mile day with only 1 lock, the Heflin Lock with a 32’ drop. It was a spectacular day for a boat ride - sunny, clear and flat with the most amazing sunlight. 

We pulled into Demopolis around 3pm. This beautiful marina is called Kingfisher, designed for larger boats. It has floating cement docks with dockside pump out. Most docks are covered with those big metal roofs to protect from hot summer sun. 

We tried the dockside pump out but couldn't make it work. I know, we took a risk to pass up a pump out but Kermit seems to be able to fix the toilets now. Turns out Don's simple turn of a wrench releases an airlock and the potty's work again! 

Kingfisher Marina at Demopolis
We got to Demopolis in time for the end of the Christmas party which gave us a chance to meet a few locals. No food left but nice conversation. We went back to the boat, opened the rest of our presents then to bed for an early departure the next morning.

On the way out in the morning we ran into Mike, a Looper just coming out of the shower. They were stopping for fuel before leaving so we left for the lock. They are in a Mainship Trawler so they go a little slower than we do.


Our goal that night was Bobby’s Fish Camp, a gigantic 98 mile journey. We could only make it if we get through the lock promptly. The Demopolis Lock is just 3 miles down the river. We made it through promptly and headed down the river.

Two things are interesting as we left the lock. 

Bubbles everywhere - not the
best photo
First, there was a ton of fluffy cloud like floaters on the water that looked like ice burgs. A million little ice burgs floating around. We know they couldn’t be ice burgs. So the other thought was someone poured a bunch of detergent in the water creating a gazillion tons of bubbles. Odd.

Swings outside Demospolis Lock
The other interesting thing was the beautiful vista across the down side of the lock. There is no dam on the river here. The water cascades naturally across rocks making a beautiful vista. The community installed swings on the eastern shore so folks can picnic while watching the hypnotic water flow.

Bobby’s Fish Camp, our target is the only place to tie up on a dock between Demopolis and Mobile. Only a few anchorages are noted in that 98 mile stretch. Mike and Brenda from Visignet (the folks we met leaving Demopolis) anchored at one of those spots but we persevered.

See our boat coming up on two tows going in
opposite directions. We went through the middle. 
The only interesting thing that happened took place around one of the many curves. When we left Demopolis we were on the Black River. As a result there are a million twists and turns. That 98 mile distance could actually be much shorter as the crow flies if the waterway were straightened. 

The twists and turns make it fun to meet the many tows around corners.

The two tows going in opposite
directions! We went through the middle. 


One memorable time we met two tows, one going south and one going north. They allowed us to move south between them! As we moved between the tows everyone on both tows came out of the little houses and waved at each other like crazy people!! So we went out and waved too! They were chatting it up on the radio to catch up on family and friends. Evidently they feel as lonely as we do when no one is around for days at a time.

We pulled into Bobby’s Fish Camp at about 3:30pm. It was a sunny day so we tied up alone and went for a little walk up the hill. No people visible, anywhere. A fish camp is a southern thing. Imagine a bunch of beat up cabins and not much else.

Bobby's Fish Camp
The guidebook indicated a new bathroom available so we set off to investigate. We found it. Imagine a brown Rubbermaid shed about 8’ x 6’. Inside is a shower, a toilet and a sink. There is no way to lock the door. The only lock is on the outside. I declined. 

Kermit grabbed his shower gear to test it out. Evidently the water comes out of the faucet at the same temperature as the outside air – 65 degrees, so his shower was brief.  You have to run the shower for a while to dislodging a bunch of bugs unhappy to be so rudely disturbed. He saw an unsettling clump of fur on the floor.  

The electrical set up would have made Paul Bates proud. No grounding. No GFIs. An electric cord ran to an extension cord cut off to plug into an outlet. Great!

When you go to out of the shower had to wipe his feet to remove the dirt before putting on his socks.
The weather looked really crappy. A big storm was coming across the south. In the morning we decided to stay put another day to wait out the worst of the storm. Around midday we saw Visignet pass. Kermit suggested they might consider staying at Bobby’s Fish Camp to wait out the storm. 

They elected to keep going. At the Coffeeville Lock immediately south, the lockmaster suggested Visignet would be safer if they turned back to Bobby’s because the storms were supposed to bring flood water, high winds making a downriver anchorage risky. They turned around and joined us!

We had a few beers and some appetizers at the restaurant. Alabama health food: fried dill pickles so fried that they disintegrated in our mouths, fried sweet potatoes, hush puppies and fried onion rings. I have had enough salt, so much salt even the beer did not wash it away!

Lunch on the road
The storm was bad. In the morning the water was much higher. Coffeeville Lock just south of Bobby’s Fish Camp is the last lock on the river system. After this, the water is no longer regulated. It is subject to currents and tides. This lock is supposed to drop us 34’ but it only went down 12’. The doors opened to really high water and lots of logs and crap floating through. It made travel difficult as we picked our way through. To make it more fun, the entire day was foggy. Sometimes full fog and sometimes wisps of fog floating across the river. We persevered.

Our target that night was the Tensas River M39. We anchored upstream about a mile in 25 feet of water. The rain stopped but the fog rolled in turning the river from a white cover to a full blanket of fog.

We showed Mike and Brenda how to raft off us then we proceeded to have a wonderful pot luck dinner. More pictures of that later. I haven't pulled them off the camera yet.

These loopers started their loop in when they bought their boat this summer in Dunedin FL. They took the boat to Demopolis for the hurricane season then picked up the boat and traveled upriver to the AGLCA rondevouz on the Tennessee River then traveled to Chattanooga. They are downward bound now just like us.

Today we are traveling to Mobile. As I write this we can see Mobile in the distance. We are going to Fairhope for a reunion with Charlie and Mary, Loopers from Bama Belle in our looper year. It will be great to be back in civilization again with a boat that works!!


We will stay in the Mobile area for a few days. First at Fairhope then on to the Wharf at Orange Beach where we will meet up with Visignet again along with Texas Two Step, the old Good Karma. We are excited to be at places where we can watch football on tv in civilization.

Happy New Year friends!!

Monday, December 24, 2018

MV Marissa Was Right or MV I Told You So

Leaving AYH
This is fast becoming much more of an adventure than I signed up for. Frustrations mount. I know I just published a blog yesterday about our departure from Aqua Harbor but so much has happened. Let me back up a bit.

Critter alert - Bald Eagle
Saturday December 22, 2018 we left Aqua Yacht Harbor at M448.8 headed south bound for Midway Marina M393.8, only 50 miles. Not a bad day given that these are the shortest days of the year. 

Katherine at the big lock
We traveled uneventfully through Whitton Lock, an 84’ drop. That sounds like a lot, and it is, but it goes fast. These lockmasters are… masterful at moving the locks up and down pretty quickly. We only had to wait a little and the ride itself but fun. We realized (after getting out a tape measure) that the locks are built of 5’ sections so we can count when we are almost done. Just took us five years to figure that out.

Really big drop at Whitton Lock 

We traveled through the Montgomery Lock (a 33’ drop) and the Rankin Lock (a 31’ drop) before pulling in to Midway Marina M393.8 at around 2:30pm. We could have gone a lot further but Kermit wanted to top off fuel and do another pump out because the next few days might be at anchor. 

Cute little resort cabins at Midway Marina
Remember our motto, “Never turn down a pump out”. We put in 240 gallons of diesel and filled the water tanks. 

Midway Marina


And the cutest little
bathroom!



Isn't that adorable? 
Midway Marina has new owners. Some Loopers pulled in a few years ago and liked it so much they bought the Marina! They really cleaned it up from the last time we were here. The restaurant burned down but they have a courtesy car if you want to go to town so it is not a problem. The docks have new wood.
Handmade bunk beds from local cedar

The view of Midway from the guest house
The new owners are building five resort cabins. They are adorable! The carpenter invited us in as we took our afternoon walk. The cedar he used for railings and some of the furniture comes from the property. They will rebuild the restaurant when they are finished with the cabins. All in all, it looks pretty spiffy.

Critter alert - White Pelicans
Critter alert - blue heron
We got up optimistically at dawn determined to travel through five locks. Our goal was Columbus MS M331, a challenge but doable. Nothing went as planned. I can break the day down into two bad situations.

We called Fulton Lock M391 at 6:30am indicating we were ready to go through the lock. The lockmaster indicated he had a tow coming from either direction. Tows get priority so we would have to wait about 1.5 hours. Ok, not good but we should still be able to get pretty far that day.
See us at Midway at the top? See the green
triangle entering Fulton Lock? See the
other green triangle coming the other direction
on the other side of the lock? Our dilemma...

1st Lock of the day - Fulton
Notice it is fully light by now
Another bald eagle
We waited. And waited. Finally about 8am, as predicted, the tow Jackson II came around the corner headed south. We watched our GPS as he went into the lock then departed, passing the northbound tow that headed into the lock. We could go through after that one came out. At about 9:30am we headed towards the lock, properly positioned to enter the lock smoothly.

This is not where the problem happened. We went through the lock and quickly caught up with the Jackson II. We followed him at glacial speed knowing it was no use to pass him. He had priority at the lock. There was no way we could get ahead of him in enough time for the lock to go down then back up without making Jackson II wait. The lockmaster wouldn’t let it happen. So we dragged on behind him.

That is when the problem happened. Around noon we were close to Smithville M376. We only traveled 17 miles in about 3 hours. Actually 17 miles since we were ready to leave at 6:30am. Glacial.

Kermit called the Jackson II on the radio and asked if there was any way we could scoot into the lock with him then get ahead of him for the next lock. He said no problem as long as the lock allows. The nice lady lockmaster said no problem. They had a plan. Great.

Just then, as the plan was confirmed, BUMP, we stopped. Dead in the water. F**K. Evidently the green buoy we were keeping on our starboard (right) side was way off the mark. We inadvertently left the channel and grounded the boat. Double F**K.

Kermit tried everything. Put it into gear. Back and forth between reverse and forward. Back it up. Nothing. Just an occasional ugly grinding noise. The bow of the boat was much higher than the stern. We moved stuff around. We turned on water faucets to make the boat lighter. Nothing.

Little guy came out to help! So nice!
Time to call Tow Boat US. That Unlimited Towing Package has to pay off sooner or later. A fellow saw us sitting out there and overheard our conversation with the Wilkins Lock, now in sight about 1 mile away. He said, “I thought you were anchored!”

Good Samaritan - check out the shorts!
This Good Samaritan came out to visit on a pontoon boat with his grandson. Grandpa was wearing shorts. I assure you it was not warm. And it was windy. At least it was sunny. He didn’t have to come out to us. He could have stayed back in his house watching the Brown’s game. We are glad he came out!

Unfortunately he could do nothing for us except give us depth readings that confirmed were not in the channel.  No way could he tow us off this pile of crap. Or do I have it backwards: No way could he tow this pile of crap off the dirt.

At the same time Tow Boat US came up with a name of someone from Midway Marina who might be able to help. 

Big heart!
Little boat
We sat down to wait. We were both seething, imagining the bill for more maintenance and frustrated with this entire experience. We did not speak. I put on headphones and listened to quiet music. Kermit puttered around somewhere out of my sphere. We choked down some lunch without speaking.

Little friends with big hearts
Another tow, the St. Matthew, came through northbound out of the lock. He commented on how far out of the channel we were and how that green marker was absolutely in the wrong spot. We were all (the St. Matthew captain, the lockmaster and us) kind of hoping that the engine wash should move the dirt under our boat. He couldn’t come close to us though without endangering his load. So we waited silently in our own little worlds.

Around 3pm we saw a center console boat (a small 20’ boat with the controls in the center and a single outboard on the back). The helpers from Tow Boat US!

They really tried - eventually the
engine wash made all the
difference to dislodge us
Keep in mind this POS weighs in at 64,000 pounds. No way could a little console with a 200 hp engine pull us anywhere. But God love them, they tried. And tried. They tied our lines to their little stern I-hooks and pulled until one of the hooks pulled out. But while they were whirling around I noticed that the water under our boat was moving. We began moving enough that the boat was swaying from side to side. We asked them to push engine wash under the boat to see what happened.

It worked! The engine wash from the little 200hp engine dislodged the dirt under the boat and we finally moved backwards into the channel!! We were free! We excitedly paid the nice people from Midway Marina and thanked them profusely.

Only problem. It was 4pm. And it was clearly too shallow to anchor here safely. So we had to move through Wilkins Lock M376.3. The next lock was Amory Lock M371, just five miles away. We saw a good anchorage at 366.3 in a little oxbow. Wilkins Lock and Amory Lock lockmasters both recommended this spot. Waterway Guide confirmed it with recent information.

Entering Wilkins Lock at dusk
We entered Wilkins Lock around 4:30pm for a 25’ drop. The sun was waning. We entered Amoy Lock at around 5:15pm for a 25’ drop. The sun was down, dusk was upon us. We left the lock in darkness. We made our way to our anchorage five miles down the river at M366.3 in total darkness.

Entering Amory Lock in total darkness
You might think, “How hard is that?” Let me tell you. There is an exercise trainers use to illustrate listening skills and leadership equated with emotional intelligence. One party is blind folded. The other party has to give complicated directions to the other person who does their best to follow instructions. We played that game that night.

We had to cover all the helm navigation displays and turn off all the lights except the exterior navigation lights. This protected our night vision. I had an iPad with Aqua Map on my lap on the lowest possible display light.

I gave Kermit directions on how to stay in the channel. “A little more to the right. Now a little more to the left.” Kermit had to comply as best he could even though he could barely see anything around us. I called out the mileage. “Two more miles. One more mile.”

Check out that GPS notation. We did that in the dark!
Our anchorage was a channel off the Tombigbee River at N33” 57.8 and W88” 31.82. We had to go past the entrance to avoid what looked like a little spit of land in the middle of the channel and turn back into the south side of the channel. In the dark. After being grounded. We were a little nervous.

We did it! We maneuvered in safely. Anchoring was complicated by the dark too. Normally Kermit uses hand signals to indicate what we need to do. But it was dark. So we turned on all sorts of lights and used our big flashlights to illuminate the shore until we stopped in a safe spot while Kermit put down the anchor. 

Moonrise
Xmas lights on back deck
There were a few moments when I had to walk out of the pilot house and say, “If you refuse to listen then I will go to bed and leave you out here alone.” But we got through it without bloodshed and no damage to the boat.


We warmed up some leftovers and ate silently in our designated corners, Christmas lights twinkling away.

We woke up to fog
We saw a million stars. After a while a huge full moon came out to illuminate everything. Of course it came out AFTER we traveled and anchored in darkness.

Beyond that little piece of land is
supposed to be water - but it is not
The next morning we realized how precarious our situation was. That spit we saw on the chart that looked like it was in the middle of the channel was actually real ground. If we would have turned early we would have grounded ourselves again. Either we were lucky or we sort of know what we are doing sometimes.
Safe in our little channel off Tombigbee

What did we learn from this adventure?
  • Blanche DuBois was right (Tennessee Williams reference!). We all depend on the kindness of strangers.
  • Sometimes it is ok to go to your designated corners rather than saying something you might regret later.
  • Listening to each other is good. We should do it more often.
  • Marissa was right. This boat is not Good Karma. It is “I told you so!”
  • Those Christmas lights are lovely, as is the real clear sky they represent.
  • I wish I was home for Christmas instead of our here.

More later. In the meantime, Merry Christmas!!