Sunday, September 30, 2012

Mississippi Adventure 9/27 to 9/30/12

Thursday 9/27 and Friday 9/28 were spent in St. Charles, MO, making repairs and catching up on normal maintenance. We were busy.
·         One September had new props Fed Ex’d in from Virginia Beach. They arrived on Friday morning, were installed, and water tested. They work just fine. Then the mechanic tackled the air conditioning problem. Water test showed it was not yet fixed so they took another run at it. Repair held!

·         Jim hurt his back hauling his batteries out so the mechanic could get at a waste tank that needed to be replaced. The part came in on Friday and was installed and works. Jim’s back still hurts.

·         We had a specialist come look at our generator and explain again how it works. We ran it on and off both days fully loaded and it seems to work. YEAH!! We are not sure what we are doing wrong when we try to use it without adult supervision. We will slog on anyway. Then a different mechanic checked out our air conditioning because Kermti thinks it doesn’t cool well enough. The mechanic found it was overcharging which is a sign that there is too much Freon and the condenser is working too hard. Kermit cleaned the screens and took out a ton of hair. It was quiet as a mouse last night.
The others in the group joked that we need to buy drinks next time because our bill for repairs was so much lower - $178.00 for peace of mind. No problem – it is worth it.
We met the harbor hosts Mike and Joanne last night. They dock in the St. Charles Harbor. They completed the western end of the Loop three times and have lots of great advice for the next three days as we move down the Mississippi, up the Ohio and into Kentucky and Tennessee. They took us on a tour of their boat, a 4788 Bayliner Motor Yacht. What a lovely boat with a great setup for daily living. We loved it. Three cabins, two heads, and a modern, updated, comfortable salon/galley. Plus it has a real lower station just like a trawler spread out over the entire 15’ beam.
 
We joined them for dinner at the Duck Club next door. These are covered “docominiums” that people buy. It looks just like the St. Charles Harbor to me. Very nice covered docks.
We had a very unusual experience on Friday night. At dusk, the sun set in the west but it was really in the East. Go chew on that for a while!! Everyone knows that Illinois is East of Missouri, separated by the Mississippi. But the Mississippi curves in such a way that for a very short distance the Mississippi curves around back on itself and Illinois is west of Missouri. Our entire sense of direction was completely off. We could see the river where we came in and where we would leave and we knew that we came in from the North but the sun was setting in what should be the East. So cool!!
The Vessel Why Knot with Darryl and Lisa was docked for the next month in the slip next to us and they came to the boat on Friday evening! It was great to see them again. They are visiting family and their home in St. Louis and taking care of business.

 
On Friday we divided and conquered to take advantage of having the marina loaner car. Jim and Mike stayed with their boats to complete more repairs. Kermit and Joy dropped Judy and I off at the hairdresser to get needed repairs of a personal nature. New color and cut for me and color for Judy. It is always scary to turn yourself over to a hairdresser you don’t know but sometimes the need overrides the fear. I last visited my hairdresser in June so I was starting to look like a skunk and the cut rode out of town a long time ago. It was time. This was an Aveda salon so we could be pretty confident they had the skill to handle our needs. Sure enough, after some wrangling and debate, they figured out the right combination of color to touchup my hair and the cut is great. These little things really make a difference.

 
Afterwards Judy and I wandered around historic St. Charles enjoying the little shops. We ate lunch at a cool little old restaurant called Mother-in-Law’s, named because the current owner liked his mother-in-law’s cooking! Isn’t that sweet? We ate outside with a great view of the Missouri River. This is one of the oldest towns in Missouri. And to think if we stayed at Grafton Marina we would have missed it. That, my friends, is today’s silver lining.  



 
Kermit and Joy, meanwhile, took Rusty on a tour of St. Louis area. Rusty got a manicure at Petsmart and a walk through Bass Pro Shops, and West Marine. I bet he got cookies everywhere he went!! Even with the use of a gps they got lost. Hard to believe. Finally we met them in St. Charles, left Joy with Judy and Kermit and I went to Alton IL to pick up our mail at the post office. This was 40 minutes each way; a nice little drive.
Alton is another old river town, apparently more affluent than some of the other towns we have been to since it appears to have more than two or three streets and enough cars to warrant a few parking lots. They have a casino right next to the marina right by the pretty bridge between Missouri and Illinois. We had to go to Alton ourselves to pick up our mail. Here is the back story. Dick and Deanna on Sareanna had to go to the Alton Marina for repairs on their electronics. As long as they were there we asked to them pick up our package at the post office. Unfortunately this is the only post office in the USA that actually requires the identification that the sign says is required. Kermit had to show picture ID when he went in!!
A final stop at the liquor store (Walgreens) to restock the coffers before heading to dry country in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Alabama before heading home. We have so much beer and wine now that we can’t store it all below decks. I guess we have to drink it!!
Saturday, September 29, 2012 Leaving St. Charles MO on the way to Hoppies Marine Services in Kimmswick MO.
We were a little uncoordinated this morning. Everything started off the way it normally does with Kermit’s coffee and rest breaks for Kermit and Rusty. One September and Jim’s Joy left, coordinating to meet Sareanna at Alton. We were to follow. This was a really tight dock, remember the discussion of Kermit giving folks the docking lesson. We were really focused on departing the dock. Kermit put the engines in gear and moved forward. I was on the bow of the boat pulling lines. Suddenly the boat pulled strongly to the port and the entire railing system and bike laid flat!! A big mess. We stopped immediately and pulled back to survey the damage.
Tom Houser: Damage alert
We have a big problem. The welds holding the railing on the port side broke. What to do… Kermit consulted with Mike the Harbor Host and the marina. St. Charles Harbor is the absolute best marina service we ever experienced. Ever. Hands down. Hear that Venentian? What would  Venetan pay for this kind of press. So we wanted to consult with them about repairs. It was only about 7:15 so we waited until almost 8am till the service people showed up and could give us some advice. The best person to do the repair is Little John, a mechanic who specializes in welding marine stainless steel. Evidently he is also an experienced boat racer. Unfortunately he is currently in Arkansas at a boat race so he is unavailable to make the repairs.
What to do… Kermit and Mike brought a big roll of white of shrink wrap twine. We pushed to railing up into a semi-upright position then tied the railing to the forward cleat. Our bow looks like a spider web. We joked that we need to buy or make a really big spider so we can pretend we decorated for Halloween!! Another silver lining!!
With the railing tied into place we proceed to catch up with the other three boats. Kermit arranged to have the railing repaired at Green Turtle Bay in Grand River KY. We should be there in about 3 or 4 days.
Report on Mississippi River currents: We think we are picking up about 3 miles per hour from the down river current. This means we are probably using about 6 gallons per hour instead of our normal 10 gallons per hour on the Illinois River going about 9 mph.

 
Here is the big deal and why this is important. Hoppies Marina is the only place to get fuel for the next 107 miles and the only marina for the next 228 miles. Dockage is at three 100 foot barges tied into a high stone cliff with bables. The town of Kimmswick is within walking distance. It is about 20 miles south of St. Louis. We need to get gas here for the 228 mile run. Our tanks hold 300 gallons. We purchased 6 – 5 gallon cans to fill with gas just in case something does not go our way.
Hoppies Marina is a really big deal. Hoppie is the uncle of the guy who owns the St. Charles Harbor, that fine marina with great service we just left. Fern and Hoppie are really important politically too. Fern represents Loopers and other pleasure boaters locked in a battle with the Corp of Engineers about wingdams and shoaling on the Mississippi that are putting Hoppies Marina in danger and therefore putting Loopers in danger of having no access to fuel on this stretch. Without fuel at Hoppies Marina the Great Loop is in danger for is not possible without diesel tanks much larger than most gas or diesel boats have.
We arrived at Hoppies Marina about 2:30pm, using 92 gallons of fuel for this journey from St. Charles MO to Kisswick MO. The banks of the Mississippi are at least 50 to 100 feet down the banks. Hoppie and Fern live on the banks with some family  members. The “marina” is a series of 4 barges tied end to end. They provide gas and water on the barges when you tie up. We used 92 gallons and put 97 gallons in the tanks then filled the six 5 gallon tanks on the back deck for just in case. So now we are carrying 330 gallons for the 275 trip. Our fellow loopers filled their dinghy tanks just in case we need it.
We picked up another looper boat that previously traveled with One September. Our little party wandered into town, not expecting much but it is another real cute town. Now, I do not understand for the life of me why some river towns are pretty and some are dead. It makes no sense to me. Kisswick has about three streets filled with really old houses. I mean log cabins and houses in great shape that date from the 1850s, all done up nicely as stores and little cafes. Cars packed the parking lots and people filled the shops. How odd! I would never have quessed that this town, as opposed to any other town, was so well taken care of.
Back to Hoppies for the daily 4:30pm briefing with Fern about river conditions and anchorages downriver. The Mississippi changes constantly. I guess we know that from our geography books but in this case it is critical to have up to date information since we won’t have access to a marina for 3 or 4 days. Everyone brings their charts and paper to take notes. All day today we referred to our notes, especially when finding our hidy-hole anchorage for this evening.
Dinner was docktails on the barge. Such a friendly group. We are very lucky.
Sunday September 30, 2012 Down the River
We left at the civilized hour – 8am instead of our usual 7am. I woke up startled because it was light inside the boat. Oh, no! They left without us!! But no, we were up on time and ready. Rusty appreciated the freedom o walk on the barge and decided he could poop anywhere now, so he proceeded to poop on the barge!!! Great!! Thank you, Rusty!


We started at Mile 158 with the goal of achieving anchorage at Mile 102.4. The trip was quite uneventful, although we were tense the entire time. Rather, Kermit was tense. I read, made lunch, opened mail, enjoyed the new Rolling Stone magazine that came with the mail package. Thank you Danny!
This is a picture of a truck dumping a little boat in the Mississippi while tied to another truck whose job is to pull the other truck out of the Mississippi when he rolls it!! I tell you these river people come up with the most creative ways to spend time!!
Kermit’s impressions: This was more industrial than he expected. He expected more rural. More tows. Lots of tows. Some with as many as 4 across and 4 down (16 altogether). Lots of current. We picked up 3.5 miles per hour.

Critter alert: There is a bald eagle at the tipy top of this dead tree.



We were the last boat, as usual, dragging about half a mile behind the rest of the group. Not sure why. It just worked out that way. The first boats got to Mile 102.4 and couldn’t believe this was the right spot. We all checked our notes and decided it must be. The entrance was downriver of a wingdam. Wingdams are controversials because they direct water downriver and silt up in the space upriver of the dam. Hoppies is upriver from a new wingdam, putting the marina in peril of silting up – hence the controversy. At Mile 102.4 we are taking advantage of deep water that can be found downriver and sort of protected cover by the wingdam.

Not sure if you can see this but this is a picture of our gps showing 0.0 mph while we are moving forward because the current is so strong while we are moving upriver!

 

Once we agreed on the spot, SeaQuell drew the short straw and moved in slowly over a 5 foot deep hump, nervously checking depth. We all had to go past the entrance and turn around to run against current back to the entrance of the hole. SeaQuell anchored and called the other boats in one at a time, everyone a little nervous about the depth but once over the hump we are in 18 feet of water. Naturally we are last in and probably first out tomorrow morning. We rafted off together. Our first job was to take our little dinghy and lay out a stern anchor to hold everyone in place against upriver tows that cause a lot of disturbance.

 


Rusty need to get out so everyone got on the backs of their boats and took a zillion pictures of us laying the anchor then taking Rusty over to the land to run a bit. Boy was he happy! He rolled in sand to a point where sand just oozes out him!!


Tomorrow we must leave at dawn because our next proposed anchorage is Mile 0, just before the entrance to the Ohio River. Here is the plan:
  • Sunday: to Mile 102.4
  • Monday: to Mile 1.5, Angelos Towhead by the entrance to the Ohio River
  • Tuesday: Cumberland Towhead by the entrance to the Cumberland River
  • Wednesday: to Green Turtle Bay Resort and Marina in Grand Rivers, KY. We will have the railings prepared and relax for a few days. 
By the way, I have tons and tons of pictures. We plan to load them on Flikr when we can figure out how to do that and have enough power available.




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