Saturday, November 10, 2018

Little Diversion Canal to Clifton TN

1st task - get rid of the wood!

Naturally the rain cleared after being rescued on 11/5 by #CurtisMooreishero. But we did notice we gathered a ton of wood debris between our boats while anchored in Little Diversion Canal. Rick from Eagle One got his boat hook out and jumped into action to set some of that debris free.

A beautiful morning! 
I think everyone held their collective breath when Rick turned over his engines but everything worked! The sun came out, we untied and pulled up anchor to set off on the rest of our journey!

Eagle One entering the Mississippi silhouetted against the trees
Entering the Mississippi River
On 11/6 our task was to travel about 48 miles down the Mississippi River to the junction of the Ohio River at Cairo (pronounced KAY-RO). This is a strange junction. 

The Mississippi current is running downstream at about 4 to 6 mph. The Ohio River current is running the same speed down river. But when we turned left (east) to go upriver on the Ohio for a while, all that current is hitting us in the face. We immediately slowed from about 14 mph to about 8 mph at 1000 rpm or so. We heard stories about small sailboats with small engines slowing to almost a standstill because of this current.
Dry dock for tows!
Coming up to the Ohio River

Another interesting observation about the two rivers is how commercial the Ohio River is compared to the Mississippi. Yes, the Mississippi has many tows, huge tows too. 

Traffic on Ohio River
But the Ohio is lined on the Illinois and Kentucky side with one industrial outpost after another. 

Check out those cement mixers!
t
The new Olmsted Lock under construction
Evidently this is where those huge tows are assembled for transport up or down the Mississippi. Smaller tug boats pull loaded barges into the middle of the river where the big tows are assembled. It was fascinating. Just stay out of their way!

Tows being assembled
There are two locks on the Ohio River between the Mississippi and Paducah, our destination for the evening. The used to be known as Lock 52 and Lock 53. Both locks are gone, replaced by the new Olmstead Lock which is still under construction. 

I think the actual lock is operational but the water was so high that the “wickets” were down. Remember we talked about wickets before? These are big gates that can be dropped to the bottom of the river in high water so vessels can travel over them without locking through. And that is exactly what we did!

More gizmos for the lock
Who knows what this is? Not a trick question. I have no idea!
 It is fascinating to see the lock being built. The lockmaster instructed us to stay behind this big tow that was a few miles ahead of us. We could pass him as soon as we passed the old Lock 52 but not before. That meant we cruised through the construction area at no-wake speed, about 5 mph.

All that is left of Lock 52
We could see little speedy boats taking crews around, big tows filled with construction materials and equipment. Along the right side (the Kentucky side) we saw a barge with at least 8 cement mixers in a row! We saw the biggest travel lift, at least that is what we thought it was, and sections of the new dam / lock waiting to be put into place. I am not sure if the new lock and dam will completely block the river but there sure is a lot of equipment waiting to be installed.

The old lock 52 looks very sad indeed.

We had Paducah transient
dock to ourselves
We kept dodging commercial traffic until we reached Paducah. When we did this trip in 2012 there was no place to stop in Paducah. We had to find an anchorage on the Cumberland River to tuck into. Since then Paducah has installed a nice floating dock that can hold at least 20 boats. They are still getting the kinks out of their scheduling system. We heard all about the snafu recently where the dock staff overbooked, forcing folks to raft off one another. I think Texas Two Step, our old Good Karma, was tied up there that day. But they will work it out.


Paducah also offers fuel and pump out – a service that was not available in 2012. We had to be certain to have four days’ worth of fuel to get all the way to Green Turtle Bay when we did it, a big burden to us with the 300 gallons of gasoline we carried on that trip. This time we carry 700 gallons of diesel so we don’t have to worry!!

Paducah is a swinging town these days with that Quilting Museum (closed when we got there – I still haven’t been there!), some great restaurants, the flood wall and a revitalized downtown. We walked in with Rick and Kris to a restaurant that offered farm to table fare plus a great bar. The highlight was the drink Rick ordered, a Manhattan made with Jefferson Ocean bourbon. I could smell it across the table, it smelled wonderful!! Rick let me have a taste and it tasted wonderful too!!

Rick checking out the mural close up
Rick sucked down his first then asked for another. Just as I was about to ask for one myself, the waitress came back a bit sheepishly and said, “I’m so sorry but the bartender wants me to warn you that each drink with Jefferson’s Ocean costs $25. Is that ok?” Needless to say, I did not order one! But I do want to get a bottle of that good stuff!
We walked back to the boat via the ice cream shop (never turn down ice cream!) and stumbled upon the flood mural, all lit up. This is a pictorial history of Paducah including my favorite, the Illinois Central Railroad!! I briefly worked for the Illinois Central and visited the locomotive manufacturing facility that opened in 1925 and unfortunately closed in 2017.


A "cell" that tows bump off
when they turn
Commercial stuff along the Cumberland River too
We left Paducah dock the next morning and eased back into the Ohio River. We had two choices. We could take the first right onto Tennessee River with Kentucky Lock and Dam for the shorter journey to Green Turtle Bay. We chose to continue up the Ohio River to the Cumberland River for the longer but less commercial trip on the Cumberland River, through Barkley Lock and Dam to Green Turtle. 

There actually are people
who work on those tows!!

Then the Cumberland gets rural 




And very pretty

Barkley Lock - at the end of the Cumberland River
and start of Lake Cumberland - Green Turtle Bay is
just around the corner after the lock



I realize I am always wearing
the same thing -
very glamorous
This is a pretty journey with much less commercial traffic. Although we did see some tows, our charts showed that there were many times the commercial tows on the Tennessee River. It was a grey day but Rick and Kris led so all we had to do was stay behind Eagle One! Easy day!

Eagle One leads us into
Green Turtle Bay
We arrived without incident at Green Turtle Bay, got fuel and a pump out (never turn down a pump out!) then got to our slip.

Who gave Kermit the camera?
A few words about the pump out. Remember how the aft holding tank did not seem to hold suction at Alton Marina? The gas dock guy at Green Turtle said he thought the tank was essentially empty. He even put water in the tank to demonstrate how the water was quickly pulled out then there was nothing, just like at Alton. The forward holding tank contained plenty to suck out but nothing in the aft tank.

We are not sure what this means but we can hold lots more crap than we ever thought! I can hear your heads shaking now, “Yes Kermit, we know you are full of crap!!” Vindicated!

Deer all over the resort
Patti's Settlement food truck and tent
Green Turtle Bay is a very relaxing resort in Grand River KY. I highly recommend it for family vacations. I walked into town to do some grocery shopping while Kermit changed the generator oil. Naturally he had the wrong oil filter so the next morning we borrowed the marina car to go into Calvert City to a Napa to pick up a couple of oil filters. 
We stopped for the best breakfast we’ve had in ages!! Biscuits to die for!

The first night we borrowed the lot car and went into Grand River KY to this famous restaurant, Patti’s 1880 Settlement. Patti’s actually burned down a year or so ago. A new restaurant is under construction. In the meantime they have a food truck and a heated tent. Kris ordered the best meal of the night, the smoked pork chop. I think we all looked enviously at her basket. 

Katherine and Kermit - Good Karma
The best surprise of the evening was the Christmas display at Patti’s. So beautiful! We wandered around a ooo’d and ahhh’d for quite a while. I hope you enjoy the display too!

Rick and Kris - Eagle One
The next evening we ate at the yacht club – another delicious meal with our new good friends! Rick and Kris are traveling to Nashville to meet friends this weekend so we will venture out without them. Hopefully they can catch up to us later. They are great to travel with!

We left early in the morning on Friday Nov 9 on a new leg in the journey ultimately bound for Mobile AL via the Tennessee River, Tenn-Tom Waterway, Tombigbee River and Black River. 
Waving good-bye to Rick - Eagle One
We will see them again!

We did some research and compared notes with Kris about the many possibilities.

Our plan has six options ranging from 11 days on the long end to six days on the short end. I suspect the final answer will be somewhere in the middle. Darryl Grob, I know this plan looks EXACTLY like the kind of planning you do, right? NOT!

It is a grey day on the Cumberland R
We plan to stop in Aqua Harbor at the head of the Tenn-Tom Waterway. On Monday Nov 12 they will pull Good Karma out of the water on a travel lift so we can inspect the propellers. 

The other picture every looper
has of the abandoned dock
at M78.5 - couldn't resist!
Kermit thinks he feels a vibration from some of the wood debris in the Mississippi. This is not something to fool around with. We have extra props so if there is a ding, we will just switch out the props. If you ignore this kind of thing, the vibration can mess up all sorts of things like shafts, seals and stuffing boxes. So it is better to get it checked.

Every looper has this picture of the Louisville &
Nashville RR bridge at M78.2
It is a three day journey to Aqua Harbor. It could be two but why hurry when they can’t pull us out of the water until Monday. So Friday we traveled to Pebble Isle Marina in New Johnsonville TN. 

Kermit at Pebble Isle
I can’t describe how cold and windy it was!! We were wearing so many layers! I had on a cami, a long sleeved shirt, a sweater, a vest and a coat with a scarf and gloves. YIKES it was cold. Serves us right for being one month later than we were last time.

We ate dinner at the little restaurant with a great guy who plans to do the loop next year in his 30’ trawler. He was a wonderful conversationalist. He suggested a book I need to read about the history of this part of the river – Jack Hinson’s One-man War. There is so much history around here. I can just hear the cannons roar and horses hollering in the woods as we travel down these beautiful rivers.

The wind blew all night, knocking us all over. To make it worse, around midnight the power went off again. Kermit said, “Forget it, we’ll just cuddle”. Isn’t that adorable? He didn’t cuddle. Just rolled over and we shivered until morning. Sometimes… But really, it wasn’t that cold because this is the BEST boat!!

We couldn’t leave Pebble Isle without Billy’s famous cinnamon buns! Hot out of the over and absolutely worth the wait. Mark your books, those of you planning this trip. Do not miss this treat – both Billy who is lovely and the cinnamon buns that are delicious.

On Saturday Nov 10, it was warmer and sunny as we traveled to Clifton Marina in Clifton TN. We took a little walk after tying up. I believe the people in this town have been kidnapped and taken away by aliens. We did not see a sole, no stores were opened and almost no cars on the street. The police car crept up behind us. He must be guarding the town against outsiders. He waved and we walked back to the marina for a nice hamburger at the little marina restaurant. 

After chatting up the 2 other people in the place who were only there to watch the Alabama game, we returned to Good Karma to write and read before going to bed. I am too tired to get the pictures off the camera. Trust me, this is a cute and very quiet town. 

Next up: Aqua Harbor, prop check then on to warmer destinations.

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